Today we continue our trip to Italy, but find ourselves at the same time in the "non-Italian in Italy" - in Milan. Of course, Milan is a tourist Mecca, trespassing excited masterpieces and steaming heat tourist herd. In Milan, the other signs. It is the business, the most respectable, the hurrying, the most fashionable, the most expensive city in Italy ... But there are some significant places that should definitely visit.
Good morning. The question: "What is worth living for?" Writer Harold Acton - was this - said: For the sake of a book written by you, dinner for six, and a trip to Italy with a loved one. Well, I probably would have challenged only dinner, the book I just started writing, but the trip to Italy has already happened ...It was another, it is not my first trip to Italy.
But after all this country, and so amazing, that it is - this is a world where every part, every city - unique.Venice is unique two-faced: one, a sunny filled crowd, tired and agitated at the same time. Venice is another - misty ghost, lost in grief and reflection, alone and on particularly poignant.Florence is unique, enlightening, and fills the soul with beauty and pride of the human genius.Unique - Rome indeed, the eternal city, from which all roads lead to eternity.
Ravenna is unique, with its magical mosaics preserved its beauty and a millennium.Unique provincial Rimini, on whose streets and now go the characters from the films of Federico Fellini.Unique and Milan, about which they say that it is the non-Italian city of Italy. Why non-Italian? Because Milan, its history to seek independence, under constant seizures. Who has not felt this town our own - the Celts, Romans, Lombards (by the way, a lot of blue-eyed blondes Milanese - the descendants of the Lombards, who came from the banks of the Danube).
To tell the truth, the Milanese tired fingers bend, listing all those eager for their city of villains: the Spaniards, Austrians, French. And as each new owner Milan contrived to arrange for themselves."There is nothing easier than to be unfair to Milan and make of it is not the right idea" - this warning begins the chapter on Milan in the excellent book writer "Silver Age" Paul Muratov.Of course, Milan can not compete with either Rome or the neighboring Verona is not preserved impressive monuments of the Roman era.
He does not strike and Italian exotics: here does not dry clothes on the streets, not escorted olive eyes beauty, tsokaya language: "Bella Donna!", There is no cheering from masterpieces from the heat and muzzy tourist crowd.In the face of Milan neaitalyanskogo very different features: it is spectacular in the Duomo, the only marble cathedral in Europe, it is famous all over the world La Scala Opera House, this is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, which mimics the most luxurious shops of Europe, it is detached from the hustle of Milan Channel quarter, invented Leonardo and this coveted Monte Napoleone, which begins fashion quarter.
Sometimes it seems that the whole Milan consists of front facade and immaculate beauty of women's legs ...Milan has always wanted to be the capital city and has never achieved the coveted status of (and here the analogy suggests itself.) But wounded pride did not stop Milan to become the main city of the Italian capital and industrial capital of the press and television, design and fashion.Milan - a trade area of Italy, but is clean, sleek, open to all and is very pleased.
This is the city of Italy hurry, almost unique in the country where the meeting late by no more than half an hour - the effect of the Austrian past, the habit of the order.Milanese drink five cups of espresso a day, wearing impeccable suits and work hard. This is perhaps the only city in Italy, where they will take a job only for the professional quality, and not as an acquaintance or kinship. Property prices and the cost of living, as well, and salary - here are the highest in the country.Strolling through the city, we were on the square Leonardo da Vinci in the hour of the day. Weeds clerks hurrying to dinner. Dressed as 2-3 thousand euros, they all come to their offices on mopeds.
The problem of parking makes a choice between convenience and prestige. Wins the second.And by the way, when you see the Milanese bike, no doubt, is a very wealthy man, because he lives in the center of the city where housing is fabulous money, well, not a taxi ride to the store, in fact!And because we were in the square Leonardo, then pass by La Scala will not work.While, however, if you do not know what is modest, not too perceptible and building is the main opera house in Italy, it is quite possible to get past.
"The Rock" - means "ladder", and first came to Milan Italians are very surprised not to find any on the front stairs.But the fact that its name borrowed from the theater of the church of Santa Maria della Scala, which once stood on this site.The Church was built on the money of Regina della Scala, the wife of one of the rulers of Lombardy.Theatre looks modest, not only outside but inside bezpafosno enough. Strict neoclassicism, pardon the expression, close foyer ceiling without painting, and even a red velvet and gilt hall does not compare to our Big.By the way, as well as at the Bolshoi Theatre, there also has its own ticket mafia.
If longer stand by the posters, ticket necessarily fit any dong and make an offer you can not refuse.But the Milanese often buy a subscription for 10 concerts, which costs 500 euros. Only day tickets at La Scala are 2000 euros - is December 7 - Opening the season. On this day, the capital moved to Milan (vanity Milanese finally satisfied), here gathers the entire political elite, the whole bohemian groups in Italy. Ladies shine diamonds and bare shoulders, hooded mink. Such is the tradition ... A "green" patiently waiting glamorous Senor entrance with cans of paint. It is also a tradition ...Incidentally, during the concerts the orchestra all the passages literally inundated with coats and coats - fur clothes here nobody passes.But at the upper levels do without coats.
There's not that good, but cheap and cheerful.Oh, that's buzzing I'm here to you about something, and your soul is, I suppose, not the opera, she was among the "kohtochek" soars. And that is true, to be in Milan and indulge in "kohtochkah" - no worse torture. "But I'm not an idiot," as the famous movie character would say and understand.Via Montenapoleone - it's not just a street, it's a trap, tempting seductive trap. Afraid of her loving husbands and wives gambling! Itself small - only 500 meters Montenapoleone become a symbol of fashion, it is perhaps the most iconic streets in Milan. Here begins the world-famous fashion quarter.Signs here are modest, low-key showcase. But the simple door can hide multilevel space with a dozen rooms. Advertising non-aggressive, it's no beckoning. Montenapole without you live as she lived for thirty years since then, as the disgruntled Florentine pathos, moved to Milan Critz family and Missoni.
A little later they were joined by the then young Versace, Armani and Ferre.In those days Montenapoleone - a residential street for the aristocracy, and its parallel Via Spiga was entirely occupied by a shambles.For Florentine settlers were pulled and the rest: Domenico Dolce and Stefan Gabbana, Miuccia Prada, Gucci family, Nicola Trussardi. In the end, all of these mastodons fashion focused here - in the block fashion. A fashion is a sharp, concentrated, one can see not only what is in the latest catalogs, but also what is not in any gloss no.Other images: obversachennaya ogabanennaya and public, that endless street pret-a-porter hitting one of the other large cardboard bags ... And all the doors of the temple of the next trading Montenapoleone is not uncommon ...Japanese on Montenapoleone - a separate issue.
Given the well-known Japanese tradition sweep to counter Europe's literally all citizens of the country of the rising sun immediately taken prohibitive action: more than two items in the hands of some Japanese do not give. Moreover, these buyers are entered immediately into the computer, and if you exceed the limit - restless Japanese shopingolikov unceremoniously put out the door.SALE ... how much of this sound ... Twice a year, in January and July in Milan there are seasonal sales. And then even full of dignity Montenapoleone remind visitors of our citizens before the opening of the store in an era of shortages. The same excitement and vozbuzhdneie.Na Monte Napoleone also turn to occupy the cherished doors at dawn. And when they swing open, starved and thirsty "kohtochek" audience sweeps away everything.But on the other Milanese sale know not many, perhaps, it is only known Milanese.
So I'm selling you a terrible secret. "Konvino" - translated means, roughly, "let us unite." All the proceeds from the sale of this money will go to charity: in children's homes, to AIDS, to help the famine-stricken Africa. The initiator of the charity fair-sale was still in the 80's Gianni Versace. Here under one roof collected many fancy names. And while this sale lasts only three days, it will miss a rare Milanese.
By the way, with no less pleasure than a pretentious expensive shops, the townspeople come to the market, that there are two times a week at different places of the city. For some reason they are called flea, but sold here is not old, and in addition to the ubiquitous Chinese goods, come not here to sell things out of shops, but at ridiculous prices.And Milanese who buys his clothes in the fashion quarter, could easily look into these series, and digging in piles of rags, find something cherished, but 3-4 times cheaper than in the boutique ...Of course, Milan is a tourist Mecca and most come here it's still not tourists, and businessmen.
From Milan hotel guests people, mostly business, hastening.Some come here to the famous furniture stores, as Milan furnishes (in the literal sense) of the whole world, while others rush here for industrial and design exhibitions, and others - on a new collection of clothing that turns into a vanity fair. And finally, the fourth, which cheerfully checking out the main attractions of Milan are sent to the sales to replenish their wardrobes. They come here for the contract, with fresh ideas, news. Our guests often immediately booked a room at the following year.After six when offices are closed, quickly filled bars.
This time is an appetizer, which, incidentally, was invented nearly 80 years ago, a bartender Gasparo Campari. It was revealed in Milan Campari public its proprietary herbal tincture. And the rights of the inventor, he naturally called it by its name. Aperitif - it's wonderful couple of hours separating the end of the day of homecoming.
This is a taste of freedom!And, mind you, our Petrovich and the Colonel, regulars pubs and stalls permanently settling in them after work, because they are, simpletons, and do not realize that it is a wonderful process, for which they will later spread rot at home, and called the beautiful word "aperitif" !Ever been in Italy I think, from experience convinced the Italian meal is sacred and infinite. Snacking on the go - it is impossible for the Italian and the blasphemous.
On Italian dinner consisting of 5-6 dishes shifts often stretched to three hours. And do not try to speed up the process is a solemn, hurried waiter or dinner with your Italian friend. Neither one nor the other will not understand.I guess the long tradition of feasts remained in Italy since the days of the Roman feasts. God forbid, if the tire a little revelry patrician left without waiting for the end of the meal. Oh, it was a bad sign, a bad sign! And his companions understood - obzhiratelnoy descended from a distance - not last year.So that, sitting down to dinner with Italians cheer and stores patient. Better still, as the famous joke: relax and just have fun!